From the HBD Archive
From: DAMON_NOEL/HP0800_01%hpcsee.col.hp.com@col.hp.com
Subject: boiler
Date: 1992-02-26 16:38:30 GMT

A number of people have had questions about the boiler I mentioned a couple of
posts back:
1) The thermostat I used is a garden variety unit used I believe as a replace-
ment unit on hot water heaters. It's a small unit about 2x3x2 which mounts to
a flat surface with 4 screws and reacts to the surface temperature of its
mounting face. There's a small screw adjustment for temperature (like on the
back of battery operated clocks). This together with the high amp switch is
available at plumbing supply houses.
2) The switch I used has a 20 amp/240volt rating and is a single pole, single
throw unit wired in series with one hot leg of the 240 volt pair. The neutral
lead of the 240 volt circuit is not needed for power. Be sure to wire a safety
ground wire from the 240 volt neutral to the switch and the metal base of the
pail/keg. The current rating is not to big a deal on the switch, given the
low useage. The 20 amp switch can easily handle one heater element.
3) The heater elements mount to the base of the bucket through a hole bored
in the bottom. I used the rubber gasket which came with the element on the
exterior of the bucket. The element mounts with four bolts also through the
bucket base. I put plastic washer under the heads on the inside of the bucket.
4) A variable resistance switch from a stove top could be used, these are
available from appliance repair shops. I found one of these in the yellow
pages and have gotten used parts from them dirt cheap. This, like the
thermostat would just be wired in series with the elememt and the two hot
legs of the 240. Use a drier cord or range cord depending on whether you
have a 30 or 50 amp outlet. You can get the cords from either a hardware
store or a plumbing supply.

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