From the HBD Archive
From: (Brian Bliss)
Subject: Xingu 1007 Airlocks
Date: 1992-02-27 01:16:28 GMT

> Has anybody tried Xingu beer from Brazil? Xingu calls it a "black"
> beer. It tastes somewhere between an imperial stout and an Irish stout
> with about 1/2 the hops of either. If you haven't yet, give it a taste!
> If you have, how would *you* classify it?

I would say that It's much more of a porter than a stout. I would
use ~3/4 lb black patent in a 5 gal. batch, and no chocolate malt
or roasted barley. I can't remember the hop character.


> I just put up a real high gravity (1.088 !!) stout: 12.5 lb grain for 2
> gal of wort (ok, I wasn't aiming that high but the boiling time got away
> from me :-). I pitched #1007 Wyeast -- I'm expecting a FG of 1.022 (?).
> I used 2oz of Cascade .5 alpha.
> The qustion is this: should I dilute the wort some or should I expect
> reasonably good results as is? (or maybe a better question would be:
> am I correct to expect a FG of 1.022 given the above decription?)

by all means, don't dilute it!

I've made 3 decently-strong stouts with Wyeast 1007 german ale
yeast, and totally love the results. It finishes more malty
than creamy (like irish ale yeast), but I prefer the maltiness.
The hops are leaf unless otherwise noted:

Batch 17: 3 cans extract, variety of grains, 6 gal O.G. 1.065
1.5 oz bullion (boil), 1/2 oz hallertau (finish).
My english ale starter had soured, so I popped the german ale
packet, and only let it sit a few hours before pitching (at 95F).
it took 4 whole weeks to ferment at room temperature, FG 1.017.
bottled with 6 oz corn sugar - either too much, or it still
wasn't done fermenting.

Batch 18: (oops - not a stout) 10 lb pale ale malt, 2 lbs munich
malt, 2 lbs wheat malt, 1 lb brown sugar. 42g hallertau (75 min)
19.5g fuggle pellets (75 min) 17g hallertau (45 min)
14g fuggle pellets (45 minA) 7g hallertau (finish)
OG 1.065 - pitched at 80F with german ale slurry from batch 17.
racked 8 hrs later off of lots of hot break. (it think it
was almost exactly 5 gal after siphoning). It took 3 weeks
to ferment out, FG 1.021 bottled with 4 oz corn sugar,
and was tasty (and hoppy) - similar to bass.

Batch 20: 10 lbs various light malts 1/2 each of chocolate malt,
roasted barley, and black patent. 2 lb flaked barley.
14g bullion, (110 min) 16g cascase(110 min), 10g bullion (60 min)
14g cascase (60 min) 4g hallertau (5 min). 5.5 gal, OG 1.068
pitched slurry from batch 18. very little hot break, so
I didn't siphon off the trub. I think most of the hot break
came out in the (too-hot) sparge, then I let the wort settle
afterwards and racked. It was ready in < 2 weeks, FG 1.027.
My best stout ever.

I put the hallertau finishing hops in to help keep the strainer
from clogging when I transfer to the carboy (esp. when I use
pellets), but in my last batch or stout, I put an entire 7g of
fresh hallertau in the finish, and it ruined the stout character.

Anyway, the more you re-use your 1007 german ale yeast, the
less attenuative it gets. I doubt the SG will get down to
1.022, but it might come close. If it doesn't, all the
better malt character!


> Why is it important to replace the hose with a fermentation lock
> after the bulk of fermentation? I am assuming that the other end
> of the hose is sitting in a jar of clean, probably sanitized water.
> Is this not enough "lock"?
> I`ve never had any problems with this method yet anyway.

If the temperature of the wort drops too low after most of the
yeast activity has subsided, it can potentially pull sanitizing
solution back through the hose into the beer. Of course, this
can happen with the 3 peice airlocks, too, so I'm a fan of
the S shaped ones. I've had it happen to a lager that was in
the bottom of my fridge (too cold, really), but only a little
got sucked back in, and the beer was fine.



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