From the HBD Archive
From: resch@craycos.com (David Resch)
Subject: Dry Hopping and SNPA yeast
Date: 1992-03-17 23:51:53 GMT

Tom Bower asks about dry hopping and SNPA yeast. I use both for virtually
every batch so:

I just toss the loose hops into the secondary fermenter (using a large funnel)
and then rack the beer from the primary into the secondary right onto the dry
hops. I usually do this after one week of fermentation. I let the secondary
fermentation/dry hop conditioning continue for another one to two weeks.

Numerous people have expressed concern with these hops clogging the
racking tube when it's time to keg/bottle, but this has never been a
problem for me in the 2+ years I've been dry-hopping. My racking tube
has a little red nipple that fits on the end to reverse the flow of
the liquid (presumeably to minimize sucking up the bottom sediment).
When the majority of the liquid has been siphoned off, the (now soggy)
hops begin to clump around the bottom of the racking tube. However, the
beer continues to siphon just fine! The hops actually form sort of a
filter and tend to catch a little of the yeast/trub sediment. I can (and do)
get virtually every drop of beer out of the carboy leaving just the soggy hops
and sediment behind!

Ahh, Sierra Nevada yeast! I love this yeast and use it for almost all of my
ales. Through a large amount of experimentation, I have found that this yeast
seems to work best at about 65 degree F. When the temperature goes below about
60 degrees, it REALLY slows down. In general, I find that this yeast ferments
a bit slower than other varieties, but the clean/neutral aromas and flavors
that it produces are well worth the wait!

Dave Resch

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