From the HBD Archive
From: (Brian Bliss)
Subject: hot sparge / stuck ferment
Date: 1992-03-18 22:50:00 GMT

>Jack S. offers advice that boiling sparge water is more effective than
>the traditional 170 degree water.

A freind and I let the sparge water get too hot (180-185F) on a recent
batch. The sparge had clumps of protein in it, which would not filter
out over time. The result had a somewhat sour, green, almost lambic
taste to it.


>Then I made a *terrible* choice of strainers (way to small and fine) and it
>took forever to get the wort into the primary plastic fermenter. The wort
>also got extremely aerated at this point as it dripped into the primary
>fermenter. Since then, I have heard straining out the hops at that point isn't
>that critical (?).

So take your fine strainer, and try to remove as much of the hops and
coagulate as possible during the waning minutes of the boil. Then add
LEAF finishing hops (if any), cool, and strain into the carboy. I find
that hop pellets can really clog up a strainer.

The more aeration of the COOLED wort before and just after pitching the
better - you didn't go wrong there. The yeast needs the oxygen during
its initial aerobic stage for reproduction. Most all the available
oxygen will be used up by the yeast, and will not contribute to
oxidation of the wort. On the other hand, hot wort can be oxidized

>So, I worried (don't have any homebrew yet) and sanitized a racking tube
>and gave the wort 8 or so really good stirs to get the yeast off the bottom
>and hopefully working better. Checking it this morning (4th day) the
>stirring had no effect and everything has collected back on the bottom with
>no new signs of fermentation.

Rack it off the sediment, if you wish, and be patient. If you decide
to add more yeast, create a very large starter, shake it often so
that the yeast has oxygen to grow, and then add it to the wort, stirring
gently. Aereating the fermented wort at this point can cause oxidation
problems and should be avoided.


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