Date: 1992-03-28 03:31:00 GMT
To: Homebrew Digest
Fm: Jack Schmidling
>From: R_GELINAS@UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas)
>Jack, I know when you said to just let the chiller sit in the wort for
30 minutes without turning the water on, you were defining an experiment
of sorts. I'd just like to say that in practice, you want to turn the water
on immediately to cool the wort as quickly as possible.
I understand but the longer it sits, the more time is has to settle out. My
thinking is that if it sits after chilling, it is subject to infection and
without mucking up the lid, the kettle can not be covered properly while the
chiller is inside. One obviously does not want to remove the chiller after
thewort is chilled. If it sits for 30 minutes hot it can not get infected
and is not much different from an additional 30 min boil for a chemestry
stand point but it gets an extra 30 settling time.
My poke at in-line chillers was to point out that they are inferior in this
respect unless an additional settling step is added after chilling. This is
just another step, with all the attendant sanitizing and clean up details
that make brewing too much like work.
> In fact, the faster you cool, the more fluffy stuff you'll see. That
stuff is the cold break.
>The hot break happens during the boil, when proteins, etc. clump together.
The problem with these terms is that in one instance they indicate a stage in
a process and in another/both they indicate physical stuff.
>I believe the hot break is happening at the time when boilover is most
likely, although I've seen it happen before then. The differentiation, as
I understand it, is *when (at what temperature)* the break occurs. The break
material itself is more or less the same.
In my experience, somewhere well into the boil, stuff starts coagulating into
what looks like egg-drop soup. If this point is the "hot break", I accept
the definition but let's call the stuff something else.
Similarly, the "cold break" should be some temperature at which this stuff
collects and drops to the bottom during chilling. Again, in my experience,
it is a very specific point AND much of the stuff clumps together and floats
to the top. The wort goes from cloudy and turbid to crystal clear in a
period of a minute or two when the correct "break point?" temperature is
I have big troubles understanding how this works or can be as effectively
utilized with an in-line chiller.
All this simply defines the phenomenon without suggesting a solution. I
offer as a solution to confine the use of the terms hot/cold break to the
process stage at which something happens and add your favorite expletive when
talking about the stuff. Like.... "hot break stuff".. If STUFF is good
enough for Carl Sagan, it's good enough for me.
>From: ...the shadow nose... <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: homemade seltzer recipe?
>A friend of mine is interested in making his own seltzer... He's
thinking about using champagne yeast and corn sugar with ordinary tap
water... What sort of problems would he run into?
The only problem you will run into is that you are left with a yeasty taste
that is not very pleasant. A dash of lemon or one of the many additives used
by commercial bottlers will sove the problem.
Use 1/8 tsp yeast and 2 tbs sugar for one gallon and bottle in one litre
plastic bottles. Refrigerate when hard.
The posts that comprise the Homebrew Digest Searchable Archive remain the
property of their authors.
This search system is copyright © 2008 Scott Alfter; all rights reserved.