From the HBD Archive
From: orgasm!davevi@uunet.UU.NET (David Van Iderstine)
Subject: Chiller-less cooling , trub, hop heights
Date: 1992-03-30 18:21:43 GMT

>In HBD #852:
>From: Dennis.Henderson@Eng.Sun.COM (Dennis Henderson)
>Subject: Chiller-less cooling

>After the boil (malt extract and seperate hops) I have ~2.5 gallons of
>wort. I put the stainless steel kettle in the sink in the garage.
>I fill the sink up to the wort level and add six ice trays of ice cubes.
>I stir the ice water every five minutes. After 15 minutes I dump the
>water and repeat.
>After less than 30 minutes the wort is down to 100 degress F. I combine
>with 2.5 gallon of off-the-shelf "purified water" that has been in the
>deep freeze for the brew session (~2 hours). The mixture is then
>very close to 70 degrees F so I pitch.

This sounds just fine to me. I wouldn't change a thing, unless you want
to. This is what I also did for my first dozen batches or so. The
primary reason I made an immersion wort chiller was that I was tired of
buying bags of ice cubes, and the hassle of having to siphon out the
sink periodically to keep it from overflowing. It's true the chiller
does take another pot, or bucket, to sterilize in. I use a plastic foot
basin. As with everything else, I use a couple oz.'s of Clorox per
gallon to at least rinse with or immerse in, then a tap-water light
rinse. I don't get overly concerned about sterilizing the copper. I
even forget to some times.

The big deal, as I understand it, is to reach the "cold break" as
quickly as possible. Someone else could certainly give better technical
details than I as to the particulars of this break; it affects final
clarity. Anyway, quicker is better. However, I think your 30 minutes is
fine. What concerns me is folks who leave it overnight to chill.

I would clean the garage sink, though. Cold, unfermented wort is about
the best bacteria food you could have there. The lids helps, but
hey, how tough is it to splash some clorox around in the sink first?

- ---
Regarding the thread about secondary racking for non-lagers, I was
taught this was important, if for no other reason, than to get the beer
off the trub (as also mentioned). I was told to
leave beer in the primary no less than 2-3 days, no more than 5-7.
No less, so "bad" sediment has a chance to precipitate, no longer so
it's not re-absorbed having precipitated. Let's not forget that
most micros and all professionals take the trub off the bottom of
their fermenters as it forms, so they can get away without racking
from the primary. I've yet to see a glass carboy or plastic bucket
up to the same trick. BTW, I always use a blow-off tube during
primary, as I was taught the foam coming off was undesirable.

- ---
About hop heights: The guy at Freshops that I just spoke to after
having purchased some Cascades rhizomes recommended a trellis height
of 10' to 12', with sideways running strings. I asked about 6' height,
and he said that was absolute minimum; 10'->12' was better, 18' was
unneccessary. Training would be required though, as well as selective
pruning. He indicated the vigorous side shoots would begin at 6' or so;
Papazian in CJOHB recommends removing leaves below 6' to inhibit upward
spread of lift wilt. Sounds like an overhead trellis canopy might be
ideal; I can think of little nicer environment than a beer garden with
canopy of flowering hops just overhead!

Incidentally, Freshops dried hops prices are INCREDIBLE!

- -- Dave Van Iderstine

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