From the HBD Archive
From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: Yeast Und Gas
Date: 1992-05-04 17:05:28 GMT

>
> Date: Fri, 1 May 92 09:46:14 -0400
> From: mccamljv@ldpfi.dnet.dupont.com
> Subject: Recycling Yeast
to: Joel McCamley

Re-using yeast slurry is quite simple, especially if you are going to
use it immediately. If you're going to store it for a few weeks, you
need to wash it. (see below) To recover the yeast, simply leave a small
amount of beer in the secondary when you bottle or keg -- just enough
liquid to dissolve the yeast pack. Flame the neck of the carboy and
then pour the slurry into a sterile jar (I like peanut butter jars
because they have a wide mouth)and refrigerate. Because you're not
plating out the yeast to check for purity, the general rule is that you
should only re-pitch once (but then, you have a LOT of slurry in that
jar and don't need to use it all when you pitch the next batch). Dave
has recommended to me that if something needs to be stored for more than
a couple of weeks, it be re-started with some fresh wort before
pitching, just to get everything lively.

Yeast Washing for the Homebrewer

The following notes were taken from a demonstration given
to the Oregon Brew Crew by Dave Logsdon of WYeast Labs,
on September 12th. According to Dave, it was important
for healthy yeast to be washed free of trub and hop
residue so that it could be stored for future use.
Dave said that the problem with simply storing the
mixed contents from a carboy after fermentation was
that the unwanted particulates would suffocate the
yeast over a period of time. Most breweries, Dave
stressed, use an acid wash; the sterile water wash
is much more practical for homebrewers.

Objective: To recover yeast from a finished batch
of beer for repitching or storage for future brewing.

Materials: One primary fermenter after beer has
been siphoned off or otherwise removed.

Three sanitized 1-quart Mason jars with lids,
half full of sterile or boiled water. They
should be cooled down, then chilled to refrigerator
temperature (ca. 38^F).

Procedures:


1) Sanitize the opening of the carboy (flame or
wipe with chlorine or alcohol)

2) Pour the water from one of the quart jars
into the carboy. Swirl the water to agitate the
yeast, hop residue and trub from the bottom.

3) Pour contents from the carboy back into the
empty jar and replace the cover.

4) Agitate the jar to allow separation of the
components. Continue to agitate periodically
until obvious separation is noticeable.


5) While the viable yeast remains in suspension,
pour off this portion into the second jar. Be
careful to leave as much of the hops and trub
behind as possible.

6) Agitate the second container to again get as
much separation of yeast from particulate matter
as possible. Allow contents to rest (about 1/2
hour to 1 hour) then pour off any excess water--
and floating hop particles--from the surface.

7) Pour off yeast fraction which suspends above
the particulate into the third container.*
Store this container up to 1 month refrigerated.
Pour off liquid and add wort 2 days before brewing
or repitch into a new brew straight away.



*It should be noted that in the actual demonstration,
Dave eliminated the final step; the yeast in the
second jar was essentially clean at this stage and
seemingly fine for storage.



To: Nick Zentena
Subject: draft systems
> Hi,
> I just invested in a draft system. Does
> anybody have any helpfull hints for the new
> kegger?
> Thanks
> Nick


I find I get the best results by letting the beer clear very thoroughly
in the carboy before I keg. Then I sterilize everything thoroughly and
had priming sugar to the keg, and rack on top of it. (Usually I also
throw in a bag full of hops, but that's just because I love hops!) Then
I tighten down the valves thoroughly, put on the top and hook up the
gas. I pump CO2 on top of the beer, then bleed it out, pump it in,
bleed it out, etc. until I'm pretty sure I've flushed out any O2; then
bleed off the CO2 so the beer can carbonate by itself. >>>Make sure the
beer is finished before it goes into the keg or be prepared to bleed the
CO2 daily. As someone else has pointed out, an excess of CO2 will
severely inhibit the fermentation and may interfere with flocculation.

Some people like to cut off the bottom 3/4" or so of the flow tube so
that the first draw leaves behind any yeast. I prefer to suck the yeast
out completely so it won't get stirred up if the keg gets bumped. One
of the reasons I let it clear in the carboy is so that little yeast is
left: the beers clears more quickly and there's less in the bottom of
the keg.

I tried using finings once but have found it to be completely
unnecessary, particularly with a good flocculator like 1056/Sierra N. I
can usually start drinking the beer within a week after it's kegged,
although the conditioning and the flavor (especially with dry-hopping)
improve if I hold off another week or two.

With proper conditioning you shouldn't have to add any CO2, even during
the use of the keg. If you do, just pump in about 10 psi and then turn
off the gas. If you leave it on you can easily over-carbonate the beer.
On the other hand, of course, if you _do_ over-carbonate, you can also
bleed gas off with the release valve.

If you're going to dry-hop, don't use naked hop pellets. This is the
voice of experience, believe me. They will glue themselves back
together and plug up your Out valve. No beer will get into your glass.
This is BAD. And when you bleed of the gas and open it up, and take off
the valve, beer will shoot straight up and hit your basement ceiling.
This is also BAD. Trust me.

- --Jeff





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