From the HBD Archive
From: korz@iepubj.att.com
Subject: Re: yeast questions
Date: 1992-05-29 16:19:00 GMT

Al Taylor asks about yeast:
> 1) Is there a significantly better dry finishing (high or low
> attenuating, I can never remember the nomenclature) ale yeast
> than Chico Ale (Wyeast 1056). I have heard good things about it.

I've found that Wyeast Irish Ale (#1084) is one of their most attenative,
but it does take a while to finish (i.e. the last few points take a few weeks).
Attenuation is a measure of how much of the sugars a particular yeast will
eat. Highly attenuative yeasts will eat even very big sugar molecules, whereas
less attenuative yeast will will eat only the simplest sugars (like glucose
and maltose). There is a two or three page sheet that you should be able to
get from your supplier -- heck, it's no secret, maybe if I remember to bring
it in, I'll post it.

> 3) (This one is unrelated to my own yeast concerns) If the yeast
> used for trappist ale is a mixture of several species and/or
> strains, how would one go about making a trappist from pure
> culture? Stated differently, what sort of pitching ratios of
> the different strains should be used.

Trappist Ales are generally made with single-strain cultures. It's Lambics
that are made from a variety of strains of yeast as well as bacteria.
Generally speaking, most pseudo-Lambic homebrewers use only the three
primary organisms, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (I use Wyeast #1056),
Brettanomyces Lambicus and Pediococcus Cerevisiae. If you want to be
even more close to the "real thing," then you can buy some Brettanomyces
Bruxellenis (sp?), but it will cost you a good $50 or so. The other
two can be purchased from G.W.Kent through your retailer.

You may be speaking about the fact that Orval bottles with 5 strains. This
is true, but they ferment with only one. I cultured the dregs of several
Orval bottles and got starters that tasted very different from each other.
I chose the one that tasted most like Orval and brewed a batch with that.

Al.



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