Date: 1992-06-24 16:53:00 GMT
Dr. John writes:
>perpetrators will be a boon to dealing with them. You can knock back many
>types of soft-bodied critters (such as aphids) pretty handily with a soap
>spray. If memory serves, and I'm not sure it does exactly, a 1% solution
>is adequate. You can go to the trouble of buying one of the horticultural
>products (i.e. Safers) but plain old Ivory Liquid dish soap will do the job.
Last year I tried Safer(tm) for the first half of the season and Diazinon
for the second. Whatever was eating my hop leaves last year was not
affected by either. This year I used Sevin and although I have some holes
in many of the leaves, the plants are healthy and happy. Given that I'm
about 25 miles (as the ladybug flies) from John the HopDevil, I suspect
we may have similar problems. I brought sample leaves with me to the
Conference and had some experts (like Vern) look at them, who immediately
said: APHIDS. Unless I wasn't using enough Safer and the Diazinon was
too late, I would tend to stick to the Sevin. I tried to find ladybugs
in all the stores around, but could not find any. If anyone in the
Chicago area knows of a store that has ladybugs for sale (or for that
matter, anyone who knows of a store that will ship), please send me email.
>I'm an extract brewer (with occasional specialty grains), on my 16th
>batch in about 1 year. Will a wort chiller help my brew?
>My current procedure is to boil only about 2 gallons of wort (from
>extract/H20), adding hops/grains as necessary, and then dumping this
>into the fermenter with 2-3 gallons of cold H20. The temperature drops
>from boiling to pitching temperature instantly, and I can pitch right
>away. There's no "cold break" that I can notice with this method;
>I imagine the trub eventually precipitates out into the primary
Yes it will. You've already mentioned that you don't get a cold break.
Some of what would be cold break does precipitate out, some just throws
a haze when you chill your beer (heard of "cold-filtered?").
> 1. Aeration of wort. Why should I do it and how.
Yeast first goes through respiration then begins fermentation. During
respiration, it takes up oxygen it uses later. This oxygen is necessary
for good yeast health. Oxygen-deficient yeast can lead to stuck fermentations,
low alcohol tolerance and (correct me if I'm wrong, someone) increased
diacetyl production (or is it decreased diacetyl reduction?). Aeration
should be done on the wort after it has cooled below 80F so that oxidation
is reduced. I simply cool with an immersion chiller (I used to do partial
boils and then chill with boiled cooled icewater in the kettle) and then
pour from a great height (12 - 18 inches) into a funnel in the top of
the glass carboy to aerate.
> 2. Does anyone have any experience or opinion about the malt extracts
> from North Western.
Yes. They are tasty and don't produce too much hot break, but are pretty
high in dextrins and unfermentable sugars which means you will tend to
get higher FG, sweeter beers (how sweet, depends on how attenuative
your yeast is -- I use primarily Wyeast #1028 and #1056 and occasionally
#1084, Belgian Ale and Bavarian Lager (I forget the #'s). I've found
that #1056 and #1028 are on the less-attenuative side as are the Belgian
and Bavarian. I've found #1084 to be more attenuative than most.).
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