Date: 1992-06-25 13:53:38 GMT
I knew there was more reason for not oxidizing hot wort than just because
it will darken. What happens is that things such as melanoidins (sp?)
get oxidized, which isn't a problem in itself, but as such they will not
be able to reduce oxygen later on, and so the brew is more susceptable to
the post-ferment oxidation which can impart off flavors. Thanks to all
who reminded me.
So, pouring hot wort into a hop-back is not the greatest idea. My plan
now (at least until I get to read Kinney's Zymurgy article...amazing how
great minds think alike ;-), is to pour boiling water into the plastic
buckets/hop-back and let it sit while the wort is chilling as usual. The
heat should sanitize the buckets. Then I can pour the cooled wort through
the hop-back. No hot wort, no plastic nasties, and well-oxygenated wort
as a by-product. One concern about your hot wort/hop-back/chill scheme,
Kinney, is that the hops are not being used as a trub filter bed, at least
not for the cold break material. But I guess that's the price you pay
for all that great hop aroma that'll be extracted by the hot wort. Does
Sierra Nevada hop-back with hot or cold wort?
Re. ants on hops: Ants love aphids. They actually herd them, like cows.
If you've got a lot of ants on your hops, you've probably got aphids.
Has anyone used the California Common aka Steam beer yeast from Wyeast?
A couple of pints of Anchor Steam last night has decided my next brew...
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