From the HBD Archive
From: bliss@csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: extraction rates / hefeweizen
Date: 1992-06-30 15:03:48 GMT

> I use a one step infusion mash at 155 for 45 minutes.
>
> The starting gravity is 1.036 and finishing is 1.006. With 9 lb
> of grain I think I should be getting around 1.040.

I've noticed that one-infusion mashes seem to take longer than
using a protein rest, also. I beleive the difference is just
the time it takes for the grain to get thouroughly soaked in
the mash water, which can be a good 10-20 minutes. With such
mashes, I've also had much better luck enough adding hot water
to bring the temp to 140-145, and then slowly raising it to the
desired temp, rather than immediately raising the temp with
water to the lower 150's. anyway, the iodine test should tell.

>I'd expect to get still more than that. I mash in three gallons, sparge
>with three gallons, and with 9lb of grain usually get around 5.5 gallons at
>1042. Based on what the books say I would say I have room for yet further
>improvement.

5.5 * 36 / 9 = 22 pts/lb

which is the lower end of the acceptable range for me. The only
time I usually get more than 25 pts/lb is when I use wheat malt
and get into 3 hr. sparges.

As for the rest of my technique, in summary, Corona grain mill,
Zapap lauter tun with sparge bag, grind the grain the day before,
I try to check ph, but I usually make dark beers and they stain the
ph paper enough that it's practially useless, mash for 2 hrs, and my
final extraction rates are based upon how much I got after I siphon
the beer off the .25 - .75 gal of hot break.

Which brings up another question, why do my hydrometer readings
go up after I let the hot break settle out? The stuff is heavier
than the wort (it sinks)... what gives?

- -------------------------------

>I have brewed a couple of weissen beers and they were great. recently I was
>reading Dave Miller's book and he mentioned a hefeweissen. What's the
>difference? Does anyone have recipe that I can use? Neither Miller nor
>Papazian have one listed that I could find.

"hefe" means yeast, and hefeweizen contains a significant amount of yeast
in solution, whereas a krystallweizen does not, usually due to filtering.
Most homebrews are considered a hefeweizen (unless the brewmaster has a
filtering system). Most commercial hefeweizen have had (the brewing yeast
possibly filtered out and) a non-flocculating strains added prior to bottling,
which is especially neccessary if the beer is pasteurized. Has anyone
tried this, and what did you use for the non-flocculating yeast? Wyeast
3056 seems to flocculate more than I want; I would prefer more yeast in
my hefeweizen. (I guess I could just stir up the dead yeast on the bottom
of the fermenter prior to bottling, and pour out all the sediment at
serving time...)

bb


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