From the HBD Archive
Subject: Weizen yeast / kegging
Date: 1992-07-07 18:44:00 GMT

Sam writes:
>2). I can get a jar of Widmer hefeweizen which has a large amount of yeast
>in it. I have been told that they add their yeast as a second strain later
>in the process. It is a more flocculent (Why does that word always bring
>images of gaunt monks in cold-floored stone cells in the mountains?) strain
>from what I have heard. I was wondering if I should try to form a starter
>of this yeast from the dregs of a jar and pitch this with my brew. When do
>I pitch the second strain? What are the advantages to this? Are there any
>disadvantages? Is this a dumb idea all together?

In general, modern Barvarian weizens have the two ale yeasts (S. cerevisiae
and S. Delbrucki) filtered out and a lager yeast is added at bottling
because, as you noted, it is more flocculent (and possibly less prone to
autolysis). I recommend that you simply bottle as ususal mostly because
of sanitation risks.

Brian writes:
> I've picked up two ball lock soda kegs at the scrap yard for $3.00 ea.
>and have some questions about cleaning, and the carbination in brew use.

Note that I bought my 5 kegs new from Foxx so I can't comment on cleaning
old ones.

> 1)When you place new gaskets in them do you need to take the ball lock
>studs off and replace their gaskets?

I suggest that you do replace them. They only cost a few pennies.

> 4)I've know that you need not to prime with corn sugar, hence the
>carbonation is added thru the co2 tank. But would it not help get rid of
>unwanted oxygen while aging?

If the conditioning (carbonation) vessel, keg or bottle, is sealed, then
your only hope for getting rid of oxygen is something like SmartCaps(tm).

> 5)After tapping how long will the beer stay good? Can you fill the keg
>with co2 to make it last longer?(Oh, I forgot to mention I don't have the
>facilitys to keep it cold after tapping.)

You had better find a way to keep it cold. You also had better buy a CO2
tank and regulator (it sounds like you don't have one). Refrigerated
(if you have good sanitation) your kegged beer could stay good for a year.
Unrefrigerated, well, I wouldn't recommend it.

> 6)Sense the soda kegs take the beer from the bottom how much of the beer
>will have the yeast in it?

I cut off 3/4" of the pickup tube with a tubing cutter. After three weeks
of conditioning (two at 68F one at 50F), the very first beer is crystal clear.

> 7)Should I use some type of filter while racking into the keg? If so what
>type of filter is easily used in home brewing, and how can you make sure of
>sterilization? (I've thought of cheese cloth but have no clue on how tho
>sterilize it.)

You can use a filter, but you don't have to. I recommend leaving that for

> 8)(this is'nt really a question I'd just like to get some feedback and
>maybe some better Idias for cooling the beer to drink)
> Ok, here is how I plan to cool it. I bought a 20 qt. cooler and 25 ft
>of stainless steel tubing in a coil that sits inside the cooler.
> The beer comes from the keg thru a plastic tube to the cooler into a
>coupler shank into the stainless steel tubing into a faucet and shank set.
>Wala! beer!
> I figure 5 min after I place Ice on the coil I should have cold brew in
>the mug. I'll use silcon to prevent leakage were I drill out the cooler.
> I have ordered most of the equipment for this project for under $100.00
>>From SuperiorProducts out of St.Paul Minn.(no affiliation)

A used chest freezer with a Hunter Airstat thermostat is the best way to go.
I suspect you will have trouble with carbonation since the solubility of
CO2 varies greatly with temperature. I've tried dispensing cool beer through
a jockeybox (what you described) and had a heck of a time getting the CO2
to stay in the beer.


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