From the HBD Archive
From: Joe Rolfe <jdr@wang.com>
Subject: CLEAR BEER
Date: 1992-07-09 16:30:12 GMT

i could not resist a chance to post - for a free grain mill i'll do almost
anything - well maybe not .....


but on a recent thread about clear beer from extracts,
i too have had some problems with clear extract beers.

these batches are not the normal homebrew size - you could consider me to
be the WORLDS LARGEST HOMEBREWER or one of them - jack s. don't take offense
- i don't mean or intend to flame you with this.
my brewlength has typically been 1bbl plus. i ferment in a stainless unitank
and also put wort into carbouys for tests (fruit dry hop ...)

i was looking for comment on the following:
several items i have done and will attempt to do in the future are:

1) isinglass - appears to help some, not as much as i would like
- i have tried the liquid isinglass and will try the A.Gusmer dry
isinglass called cryofine in the next batch.
- added to 5 gallons and bottling leave to much "junk" on the bottom
of the bottles and does not appear to compact very well. anyone
else used it in bottles?
- have not tapped the keg version of the same batch yet.
- have heard that isinglass in the presents of too much yeast
causes isinglass to become less effective

2) irish moss
- i let the amount to be used sit in warm (100F) water for hours
until it is used, when dumped into kettle it has cooled to ambient
- have been adding at whirlpool (after heat off) - approx 1 hr before
the wort is in the fermenter (maybe to long of contact?)
- have seemed to notice more haze (permenant and chill when too much
moss is used. (added 1.5 oz to 1bb - really hazy, .75oz 1bb appeared
less hazy (but also used MF DME instead of MF Cedarex (liquid).
- will try adding at earlier time (10 min before heat off)
- never had much in the way of chill haze during my 5 gallon brewlength
days.

3) water composition
- my water is soften with a salt based softner, my raw well
water had large amounts (1.5ppm) iron, now the water may
be too soft(??) i have only used the soft water for brewing of the
larger batches. the smaller 5 gallon batches i did use well water
and never had chill hazes
- will get a detailed water test soon
- will try to add more calcium in the boil to adjust PH, and will
try to remember to check the PH (i hate PH papers, got to get one of
those temp and ph sensors.

4) hops
- had really lousy hops the first two batches (whole cones of Cascade
and Williamette, got better hops (less oxidized and much fresher)
- have added hops very soon after boil, will try waiting until the hot
break is secured.

5) boil
- i have always boiled for a full 90 min
- in larger batchs (1bb +) i boil the full volume
- in smaller batchs (5 gal and less) i could not boil the full volume
- the boil has been less than vigorous (judging from what my 5 gallon
batches have been). have adjusted the propane burner level. will
be adding a 4500 watt element for next batch.

6) chilling
- i use dual 25 foot counter flow chiller, the water temp going in
is usually around 60-70F, i adjust the flow of water with a ball
valve to attain the temp needed for the fermenter, (another use
for temp sensor). i usually keep 110 gal of water on hand to chill
the wort to 60 - 70 F. the wort is pumped at 4-5 gal per min.


If any of you have comments (constructive or otherwise) i would like to
hear from you (email or post).

Do the items appear to be sound brewing principal or excessive worry....
(i can relax later, but worry whilst i am still relativly young:-}

What items are the most important (if any)??

Thanx in advance
Joe Rolfe - 508-967-5760

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