From the HBD Archive
From: "Rad Equipment" <rad_equipment@rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU>
Subject: Oats, Bitter Dregs, Pins
Date: 1992-07-10 00:53:03 GMT

Subject: Oats, Bitter Dregs, Pins Time:7:48 AM Date:7/10/92
Steve Kennedy aske why you need other grains when mashing oats.

There are no enzymes in oats. You need the grain to supply these enzymes in
order to convert the starch into sugar. The only way to get around this would
be to use some enzyme extract, like koji, to convert the oat starch. If you
have a local supplier of such an extract, try it. Otherwise just follow the 1
to 1 recipe I stated previously. When I was doing extracts I would mash all my
specialty grains with the oats so my mini-mash looked like this:

1lb oats
.5lb roasted
.5lb black patent
2lb 2 or 6 row
1 to 1.5 gallon water
bring mash to 155 degrees and hold for 1 hour. Pour grains into colander and
rinse with an equal amount of water at 170 degrees. Add extract to this liquid
and bring to maximum volume for your kettle for the boil.

I never found the contribution of fermentables from such an oat mash to be
significant enough to alter the basic extract recipe. My stouts tend to hang
around the 1.055 - 1.060 range so I would target the lower number based on the
extract and take the mash sugar as "gravy".

There may be no advantage to "mashing" specialty grains when used with
extracts, however I never liked the idea of adding specialty grains to the
kettle and then fishing them out prior to adding the extract. I knew I wouldn't
be able to remove all the grains and don't like boiling them. I always steeped
my specialty grains in 150+ degree water for 30 minutes or so then rinsed them
into the kettle. Doing the actual mashing was a painless step to take and just
added another 30 minutes to my session.

I have never tried diastatic syrup so I can't speak to its benefits. If "pale
malt" (as in British Pale) is to be your adjunct you shouldn't need the DMS as
pale malt will supply sufficient enzymes to mash itself.

On another topic:

Douglas DeMers talks about his "bitter dregs" and says:

>Additional 1 gallon of sparge was prepared when gravity of runnings
>was so high. Even after an addition gallon of sparge, the runnings
>were high, IMO. The little red worms in the compost heap were happy,
>though! Next time, I'll use more gypsum to bring the ph down to 5.7!

Your recipe calls for 1 lb of Black Patent in a 5 gallon batch. I'd expect your
pH to be too low as a result of the black malt, not too high. You quote a
reading of 5.0 at your initial rest of 135 degrees so it sounds like calcium
carbonate would be the "drug of choice" here rather than gypsum. Regardless 5.0
is certainly an acceptable level. What does the pH have to do with high final
runnings? It sounds like you got ample conversion. Wouldn't high final runnings
be a result of a too quick sparge rather than chemistry?

And, Russ Gelinas (the other Russ) says:

>An easy way to remember which keg fitting (2 pins or 3 pins)
>goes with which dip tube (co2 or liquid) is to think that the
>beer tube is "more important", and so has a higher number of pins

The liquid tube is also LONGER and so the association with a LARGER number of
pins works as well.(;-)


Russ Wigglesworth CI$: 72300,61
|~~| UCSF Medical Center Internet: Rad
|HB|\ Dept. of Radiology, Rm. C-324 Voice: 415-476-3668 / 474-8126 (H)
|__|/ San Francisco, CA 94143-0628

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