From the HBD Archive
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Kegs, Thermostats, Jocky Boxes Trub
Date: 1992-07-20 17:26:00 GMT


To: Homebrew Digest
Fm: Jack Schmidling

>From: oconnor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (donald oconnor)

>The notion that o-rings from a used soda keg must be replaced because
the soda syrup has impregnated the rubber is a myth for the most part.
Sugars and flavor components will come out or off of the o-rings simply
by soaking in water.

I would be interested to know how long you soaked them. I never bought new
ones but I have soaked them overnight in: bleach, 100% alcohol, vinegar,
baking soda, lie water and several other things which now escape me. I can
still smell coke on all four of the ones I have. One of them that was only
casually soaked in bleach and carefully flushed with water, all but destroyed
a batch of beer. The taste of coke was so strong, the beer was barely
drinkable.

>Additionally, since the o-rings are not in contact with the beer then
the idea that even some minute residual odor will destroy the flavor
profile of a malty beer seems very unlikely.

I would be interested to know how you think the o-ring seals without
contacting the beer. My guess is that at least 30% of the large one sealing
the lid is exposed to beer on the inside.

>From: scott@gordian.com (Scott Murphy)
>Subject: kegging question

>I have kegged three of my batches to date. I don't add priming
sugar. Instead, I siphon the beer into the keg, seal it and add
CO2. I crank the pressure up to 25psi or so, invert the keg, and
occasionally give it a good shake. I reach drinkable carbonation
levels within a day.

Welcome to the club. I used to let it sit for a week to carbonate before I
learned that shaking the hell out of it would do the job in 15 minutes.
However, I am curious to know why you invert the keg. It seems like an
unnecessary exercise.

>Does anybody think that priming (natural carbonation) is a better
way to go than forced carbonation?

I kinda do but the lack of sediment and turn-around time are tough to fight.

>From: korz@ihlpl.att.com
>Subject: Fridge thermostats

>Roger suggests using the Honeywell thermostat for converting a fridge
to our temerature range.

Just, pray tell, what is "our temperature range"? I am having a hard time
not being bored with all this talk of fridge temp controllers.

Baderbrau ferments, ages and bottles/kegs their beer at 50F. This is a high
quality pilsner lager and any fridge I have ever seen can maintain 50F with
no outside help.

What am I missing?

>From: korz@iepubj.att.com
>Subject: Re: My jockeybox

>Russell writes:

>Perhaps the length of the tubing in the "jockeybox" is the problem.
>The amount of beer sitting in the tubing and the amount of time
>any sip of beer spend sitting in the tubing increase with tubing
>length. 10 feet of tubing with a cross-sectional area of 1 cm2
>will easily accommodate an entire glass of beer.

>I think the problem I had was that this was industrial beer being
dispensed continuously from a rented (grungy lines) jockeybox. I still
believe, though, that the pressure would have to be pretty high to get the
CO2 to dissolve into the beer in the keg which is at, say 68F. This
would be much too high a pressure for dispensing the beer. Even
if the beer got to spend a few hours at 50F, so much of the dissolved CO2
would stay in solution when the beer finally came out of the faucet,
the pressure drop may still cause it to foam a lot.

I think I see the light. Your jokey box is a big coil of copper tubing with
all the potential problems outlined above.

Whereas, the cold plate is a very short run of very small gage tubing in a
killer heat sink. This seems to have enough advantages to make it worth
starting over:

1. Holds only 2 oz of beer.

2. One cup of cubes will chill a glass or two.

3. Narrow tubing simulates long run without holding a lot of beer.

The point of (3) is that you can boost the keg pressure to properly carbonate
beer at room temperature and still dispense it properly.

>From: Jeff Benjamin <benji@hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> `
>Subject: Counterflow chiller plans, killer sparge gadget

>Tonight we just tried out some new lautering hardware that beats the
Zapap lauter tun hands down (Charlie, how could you have lead us astray?
:-).

>The manifold is made with about 5 feet of tubing, 4 tees, 5 endcaps, one
elbow, and one step-down for matching the size of the plastic hose.

I am so glad people are beginning to see the light. There are other ways of
doing things, aren't there?

You can go one step farther (closer) and use only 6 inches of tubing and a 4
X 6 inch piece of window screen, rolled into a tube and clamped on to the
tubing. I have been using this since my first all grain batch and see no
reason to ever get any more complicated. If anyone is interested, I have all
the bits and pieces and instructions on doing it in a posting called
Easymash. Just email if you want it.

>From: "CMD 2NDLT ALBERT W. TAYLOR "
<S94TAYLOR@usuhsb.ucc.usuhs.nnmc.navy.mil>
>Subject: Trub

>I just made a batch of beer, and this is the first time I have worried (yes,
I worried!) about letting the trub settle out. Only problem is that it took
overnight for it to all fall out, even after the wort is completely cooled.
My question is how much damage can be done by letting the stuff sit over-
night to let the trub settle out..... Does anyone know a better way than I
propose?

Yes. Stop worrying about it. What does not settle out by the time it cools
will settle out during fermentation/aging.

js


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