Subject: A number of different things
Date: 1989-01-08 20:20:00 GMT
Our system was down for maintenance for a few days, so this will be another
multiple-topic set of comments.
SAKE: Here, including the name and address (for accreditation purposes) of
the sender, is the sake recipe I obtained. Mr. Herron is also a member of the
historical re-enactment society I belong to.
Date: 4 Jan 89 19:09:39 GMT
From: mailrus!ukma!davids.UUCPemail@example.com (David Herron)
Subject: Sake recipe
I have one. I cannot vouch for it's accuracy as I've never tried it,
however it comes from a printed collection of wine recipes, the entire
booklet it Copyright (c) 1976 by Raymond Massaccesi, is titled _Winemaker's_
_recipe_handbook_. It's avaliable for low cost from:
Semplex of U.S.A.
PO Box 11476
Minneapolis, MN 55411
About the only thing I would do to this recipe is remove the raisins.
I typed it verbatim from the book and there is no warranty as to fitness
or merchantability of the product described. All rights reserved :-).
I wasn't going to post it to the newsgroup, but since a third voice
popped up asking for it ... (This is a cute little booklet, anybody
interested in the recipe for Onion Wine?)
---------------------------> Cut Here <----------------------------------
Rice Wine -- Saki
2 1/2 lb Rice (husked or raw rice, if available)
1/2 pt Grape Concentrate or 1 lb Lt raisins
7 pts Water (hot)
2 1/2 lb Sugar or Honey
3 tsp Acid Blend
3/4 tsp Energizer
1 Campden tablet, crushed
1 pkg Sherry Yeast
1. Wash and coarse crush rice. Place rice and chopped raisins
into nylon straining bag, tie top, and place in primary
2. Pour hot water over and stir in all other ingredients EXCEPT yeast
and energizer. Cover primary.
3. After 48 hrs add yeast and energizer and cover primary.
4. Stir daily, check Specific Gravity (S.G.) and press pulp lightly.
5. When ferment reaches S.G. 1.050 (2-3 days) add another 1/4 lb
dissolved sugar per gallon (or 1/4 lb honey, of course).
6. At S.H. 1.030 (6-7 days) strain juice from bag. Syphon wine off
sediment into glass secondary. Attach airlock.
7. At S.G. 1.020 add another 1/4 lb dissolved sugar per gallon.
8. When ferment is complete (S.G. 1.000, about 3 weeks) syphon
off sediment into clean secondary. Reattach lock.
9. To aid clearing syphon again in 2 months and again if necessary
Optional: You may continue to build up alcohol by adding additional
doses of sugar until ferment ceases. To sweeten add before bottling
1/2 tsp Stabilizer, then, add 1/4 lb dissolved sugar per gallon.
CHAMPAGNE BOTTLES: Are wonderful things, *if* you remember that you want
bottles from _cheap_ champagne, such as _Andre's_. If the champagne had a
real cork, with a wire restraint, it'll never take a bottle cap. Also: you
will need a bench-top bottle capper; the little hand-held types are only good
SUGAR: I have always known that sucrose produces a cidery flavor, which is
undesireable in beer. When using a kit, I've always assumed "sugar" meant
corn sugar (maltose, I believe). Also good for substitution is crystal malt,
on a pound-for-pound basis, steeped in lukewarm water for 20 minutes. The
water is then strained out to be used in the wort.
BOTTLE SANITATION: The following remarks are based on my microbiology
experience. When I rinse my bottles after chlorination, I allow them to drain
upside-down in a thoroughly scalded-out drainboard until I'm ready to use
them. Then, I line them up on the newspaper-covered floor (I'm too much of a
klutz not to take spill precautions) _on_their_sides_. Leaving them on their
sides will help keep them internally sterile, with minimal chances of
contamination (in microbiology, when you are culturing from tube-to-tube, you
hold the tubes parallel to the floor). Once filled, the now-upright bottle
has a sterile cap placed on it. This protects the brew until the cap is
KEGS: General thanks to those who replied to my questions.
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