From the HBD Archive
From: Andy Newman <NEWMAN@Venus.YCC.Yale.Edu>
Subject: Errata
Date: 1989-01-16 14:17:00 GMT

Greetings:

I have a series of questions that have come up over the weekend.

1) I currently use those large (~7 gallon) plastic lidded
buckets as primary fermenters. While they are generally
adequate, the lids are damnably hard to remove and install
without shaking the brew around a lot. It there anything
more -- um -- professional that is available that maintains
a good seal through, perhaps, a more precise manner?

2) My understanding of the use of gelatine as a fining agent
is that it works in a purely mechanical fashion to remove the
yeast from the liquid. Just how complete is this removal?
Essentially, what I'm interested in is if I'm going to have
any problem bottle conditioning my beer if I add gelatine 24
hours prior to racking them.

3) (Big question) I've recently become interested in trying
my own mashing. Up until this point I've been making beer
from various combinations of extract and adjuncts that already
have undergone starch conversion. My local brew supplies
store claims that "it's not worth the trouble...the beer
kits are much better these days"...even if he's being
truthful, I'd still like to try it. My two questions on
this topic are:

a) What equipment should I buy? What's mandatory,
what's nice to have, and what's a total waste of
money?

b) What is the relative cost of, say, pale malt
versus canned malte extract and DME? My supplier
charges about 8 dollars for a can of low-brow
extract (3.3-3.5 pounds) and the same 8 dollars for
4 pounds of DME. He doesn't stock quantities of
unconverted malt.

4) I'm trying to track down a recipe for Oatmeal stout....I
understand that there was one published in a back issue
of Zymurgy that I haven't been able to track down...If
someone has this recipe and would be willing to either
post it or mail it to me I would be eternally grateful.

5) (Finally)...just a word of note/warning...I just finished
bottling a batch last night (that's not the warning). I
used two cases of empty Sam Smith bottles because they
seemed rugged and looked attractive. I notice, however,
one minor flaw with these bottles. The mechanical hand
capper I have doesn't fit the neck of the bottle correctly.
Specifically, the metal yoke that is designed to clamp all
the way around the bottle doesn't make it. As a result, when
you apply pressure to seal the cap, you are also attempting
to constrict the neck of the bottle. I managed to crush the
neck of a bottle this way. The class just completely
pulverized and left me extract glass dust from my capper.
I discovered that if you apply a small amount of pressure and
then reposition the capper down slightly (after the cap has
partially seated) for the final ooomph...it seems to reduce
the risk notably.

-long windedly your,

Andy Newman

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