From the HBD Archive
From: rogerl@Think.COM
Subject: Liquid Yeast, Hops and Filtering
Date: 1989-02-01 14:32:10 GMT

From: Bryan Hilterbrand <bryanh%dadla.la.tek.com@RELAY.CS.NET>
Subject: Liquid Yeast
...
Did I do the right thing? Should I have let the yeast sit overnight, or
would it have made a mess all over my counter? Any other do's and
don'ts about using liquid yeast?
You missed the line in the book about "Don't Worry". You did
everything just fine. I don't think that envelope can "explode".
Them buggers are really tough when it comes to containing starting
microbeasties. What that package does is start the yeast
multiplying, so that when you pitch there is sufficent activity to get
the whole fermentation process going. This "starting" process is
typically not needed for dry yeasts. Other liquid yeasts may not come
with starter such as the one you used. In these cases you will need
to make up a starter from malt and water. The package usually
describes how to create the starter. The big thing here is
sterilization. Everything has to be *REALLY* clean. Since liquid
yeasts are typically purer strains, they can be affected by
contamination easier. This is also why the package you used said to
sanitize the outside of the envelope. You picked a great place to
start, with liquid yeast et al. Just remember, Don't Worry,
Relax,.....

From: Pete Soper <soper@maxzilla.encore.com>
Subject: bittering hops
Is it true that flavor and aroma come only from hops added in the last
few minutes of a boil and steeping andr dry hopping?
Yes, this is one place where the finish of a brew comes from.
Different hops add different flavors and aroma when added to steep or
dry hopping. Some can be astringent and some can be quite sweet and
flowery.
Is it true that one hop type added for a LONG boil is going to add
just the same thing as another hop - namely isomerized alpha acid?
Yes, but the thing here is how much of a type of hop is being used to
generate the amount of bitterness desired. To get the same level of
bitterness with a hop that has an alpha level of 6, for instance,
would reqire twice as much as a hop with an alpha level of 12.
Why don't I just buy the most bitter hop I can find for this and be
done with it?
Maybe you don't want that much bittering in a given batch. Maybe you
don't want the end product to be so astringent or sweet. Hopping can
get to be a real art. And much of that art depends on personal tastes
and style of brew you are creating. If you are trying to reproduce a
particular style, typically you'll use a hop that is common to the
area where the style of beer is from. So I guess what I'm saying is
it isn't just the bittering quality of the hops that's used. I'm
still learning about the nuances and subtleties.

From: John F Stoffel <john%wpi.wpi.edu@RELAY.CS.NET>
Subject: Filtering my Brew
After drinking our first experimentaion in Home Brew (which came out
Damm good in our estimentation), my frineds and I have come to the
conclusion that filtering the beer just before we bottle it would do
wonders.
You might want to investigate finings. Geletin and polyclar are two
that have been discussed quite abit in this forum. Another
alternative is chilling the batch for 12 to 24 hrs. prior to
bottleing. All of these things will help.
Filtering requires quite a bit of hardware, ala two pressure tanks,
appropriate sized filters, CO2 et cetera. My brewing budget is very
modest and I find this additional equipment for filtering to get quite
costly quite fast. I'd suggest trying the low tech solutions,
finings, first before spending the big bucks.

Cheers!
Roger Locniskar

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