From the HBD Archive
From: "1107-CD&I/VIRUS DISEASES" <henchal@wrair.ARPA>
Subject: chill haze, yeast storage, spleen venting
Date: 1989-03-17 15:14:00 GMT

Andy Newman writes the following:

"It usually seems clear until I hold it up next to a bottle of
commercial ale at which point it becomes apparent that it is
still somewhat dull colored. It never gets any clearer than
that. Worse yet, when I chill the beer, it devlops a very decided
chill haze."

I, too, have experimented with different finings, and found that
irish moss added to the end of the boil did the best to resolve
much of my chill haze and other clarity problems. However, I
agree that homebrewed beer never looks as clear as the factory
beer. I am sure the reason is that the commercial brewers use
sophisticated centrifugation methods and filter their beer. I
have heard that homebrewed beer can be filtered using
diatomaceous earth (there have been ads in Zymurgy for
diatomaceous earth filters, I think). Also, there are filtering
devices made for the wine maker that are pretty simple to use,
but I have never heard of these devices being used for beer. I
prefer not to use them, but there are a variety of proteases
available that can break down soluble proteins (has anyone tried
to use the meat tenderizer products to remove proteins, it seems
possible, but I wouldn't want them in my beer.)

Recently, there was an inquiry about freeze guard. Generally
available reagents available include DMSO and glycerol
(glycerine). DMSO is available from many sources as a "health
care item". Its sale is restricted in some states. It can be
used at a final concentration of 7.5 to 10%. Personnally, I
don't like DMSO because of the smell and it is not an entirely
safe chemical. Glycerine (glycerol) can be purchased from your
local pharmacy. Buy the USP grade. You should sanitize glycerol
(in a boiling water bath for 20-30 minutes) or sterilize (in a
pressure cooker for 15 minutes) it before use. It can be used
effectively at a final concentration of 10-20%. A suggested
method is to grow a five milliliter (ml) culture of yeast to its
peak activity and then add 1 ml of glycerol. The culture then
should be placed immediately into the freezer. When you are
ready to make a starter culture, thaw the 5 ml culture quickly
and add it to 25 to 50 ml (or about 1/8 to 1/4 cup) of wort.
When this is fermenting strongly transfer to 1 pint to 1 qt of
wort. Continue culturing the yeast until you have sufficient
amounts for a strong fermentation (1 qt for ales, 2 qts for
lagers).

I received the registration information for the AHA conference in
June. I was a little taken back by the registration fee of $240
for members and $290 for non-members. Do others find this
registration fee a little high? I think that the AHA should find
a way to subsidize the conference fo that the fee is under $100
at least so that more can afford to attend the meetings.

By the way, Charlie Papazian and the AHA apparently are going to
be available through a SIG on Compuserve soon. I wish that they
were simply tied into BITNET to participate in this forum which
is obviously more active.

Erik A. Henchal
<WRAIR.ARPA>

Back New Search

The posts that comprise the Homebrew Digest Searchable Archive remain the property of their authors.
This search system is copyright © 2008 Scott Alfter; all rights reserved.