Date: 1989-03-31 02:35:11 GMT
>> From: Jim Conroy <AS2JXC%BINGVMA.BITNET@CORNELLC.ccs.cornell.edu>
>> I heated 1# crystal malt in 3 gals water till boiling removed all
>> malt by straining and added 6# dried amber extract.
>> I then boiled for 45 min
>> added 1oz Bullion hop pellets for 10 min
>> added 1oz Fuggles for 3-5 min.
If you put your grains in a nylon straining bag, there's no straining
to worry about. I also remove the grains before the boil, so the nasty
flavored tanins don't get extracted. I remove the grains at about 170
degrees F. Then I add malt extract, take that to a boil and then add hops.
There are benefits to boiling the wort with the hops. I'm not an expert
on this but it has to do with getting the alpha and beta acids from the hops
to do their thing with the malt. Hops help produce a clearer beer. They grab
the large proteins from the malt thus giving a better cold break. The cold
break occurs as the wort cools down and the proteins and perhaps some other
large molecules (??) clump together in visible clusters. Then if you give
your beer a good stir, these particles form a nice conical pile in the
bottom of your cooling container. I then pour this wort, with hop leaves
and all into a large food grade sterile bucket with the nylon straining
bag over the bucket, so I catch all the hops. Also I don't pour in the last bit
of wort which has all those big particles from the cold break. Then I add
my yeast, stir it well, and siphon into the carboy. I've heard that
Sierra Nevada filters their beer through hops. Sounds like a great idea,
but rather expensive for us little guys.
I used to worry about splashing but now I don't. It's apparently good
to oxygenate your wort because the lag time of the yeast when they multiply
is aerobic. Oxygenating the wort helps the yeast during this lag time. The
fermentation phase however is anerobic.
The alpha acids and beta acids produce the bitterness
that you taste in the beer. It takes different amounts of time to get a good
extraction of these acids. I am not positive on these times. Also there
are different properties of the alphas and betas but again I don't remember
what they are. Perhaps someone out there can fill in these blanks.
I use two additions of bittering hops to get different effects. One
addition gets an hour and fifteen minutes of boil, and the second half an hour.
The aromatic oils give the wonderful hop aroma to the beer. Boiling hops
destroys these oils, so aromatic hops should be added at the very end
of brewing, and not boiled. Also try to boil as much water as possible when
brewing. The alpha and beta acid extraction decreases as the
density of the wort increases. I try to start with 6-7 gallons
in two brew kettles. This allows for evaporation.
>> At this point with no real way to strain I tried to transfer HOT
>> wort to the carboy using a strainer (mess 2). The HOT wort glubbed out of
>> the CARBOY and funnel so very tired I transferd slowly with out straining
>> until I got to the bottom, which I strained with a kitchen strainer.
Be sure to cool your wort before adding it to your carboy to avoid cracking
your carboy. Carboys are more delicate than they look. Once while carrying
two carboys, I accidently bumped the two together. It was not a strong impact
but it cracked one of the carboys. That was one of my sadder beer experiences,
of course when I had a full batch blow and ooze down the walls through the floor
to the downstairs neighbor's flat, that was probably worse. (It was a dark
beer too) :-)
The posts that comprise the Homebrew Digest Searchable Archive remain the
property of their authors.
This search system is copyright © 2008 Scott Alfter; all rights reserved.